![]() female 3/16" inverted flare (where your brake line tubing connects into it) by 1/2x20x3/16 male inverted flare (where it screws into the m/c. O'Rielly part# 265301 edlemann adapter fitting. Autozone reservoir part# R23804 can be bought as new m/c complete assembly with resovior for more money.ģ. O'Rielly's auto part# 10-1822 reman 1-1/32" bore chrysler master cylinder no resovoir.Ģ. the mini IMP brand type tubing cutters are very handy for tight areas.ġ. ![]() it's assumed that you already have a double flaring kit, a tubing bender, and a tubing cutter. i moved the pedal pushrod up to the upper hole and welded the holding pin in the brake pedal, and flipped the brake light switch stop plate arround to work in the bottom hole where the pushrod was originally. then rounded the end to fit into the m/c cup radius. the rod is just slightly bigger than 3/8" or. Made 3/8x16 threads on each half of the pushrod for a 3/8x16 long nut used in the middle, with 2 jam nuts to make it adjustable. I used the original pedal pushrod from the back side of the power brake booster assembly. have buddys that work for the city and txdot that get the old signs upon replacement with new ones. made it from a stop sign which is heat treated. I made a cardboard template and then an aluminum firewall plate to block off the big power booster hole and cover the air gap. i'm ready for another banzai pass to see if it stops with less foot pressure. it's holding pressure with no leaks after bleeding. Still need to tweak the lines arround some to clean up the angles and get the lines a little bit more square to each other, and rotate the line lock some to "stack" the 3 lines going front to rear, but this is a rough install at this point. also, i reused the old tubing line nut on the porp valve or brake light switch for the one line that has 1/2x20 threads going in, and cut the tubing shorter and re-flared with the old line nut going out to the rear brakes from the prop valve. There may be other ways to do this, but this is how i did it. both m/c outlet holes are inverted 3/16 flare openings. just switch your line routing at the m/c. the front and rear fluid chambers are reversed due to the resovior having the larger chamber at the rear. but you'll have to fab up your own pedal pushrod and dust boot or order them from the above mentioned. To complete the package we include vehicle specific flex lines for the front brakes and hard line adaptors for the rear.Here's a DIY parts list for a drag race or off road racing power to manual brake conversion for the second gen camaros and probably a few others as well, using the same basic parts sold by strange and wilwood for about half the cost. This master cylinder is only 6.5 inches in length and weighs 3lbs. We use a spec'd Wilwood compact tandem aluminum master cylinder with a fixed mounted pushrod. The 11.25 low profile rotor will allow clearance with most bead lock wheels This system allows the rotors to move independently of the hats as they expand and contract through heat cycles allowing the rotors stay flatter and run truer. The lug drive Dynamic Stainless Super Alloy Rotor is especially beneficial to cars that rely heavily on the rear brakes. We average weight savings of over 30 pounds compared to factory font brakes with this kit!įor the rear we use Wilwood’s 11.25" SA dynamic (floating rotor) drag kit with a large 4.80 In² piston area the forged billet Dynapro four piston calipers to provide ample brake torque to shut down even the fastest drag cars. This complete brake system includes a LP Racing spec'd Master cylinder, front and rear brake kits, front flex lines, and rear caliper to hard line adaptor fitting.įor the front we are using Wilwood’s Dynapro front dynamic (floating rotor) drag kit with hard anodized 3.00 In² piston area forged billet Dynapro four piston calipers, lightweight hubs and 10.75' X. We size the caliper pistion area with a proper master cylinder bore size to achive a excellent pedal feel and brake line pressure. We at LP Racing have spec'd out a complete light weight floating rotor brake system for your drag car unlike the off the shelf kits available almost anywhere else.
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